Phosphates Zero Nitrates Zero. I thought this was good!

by **jakemaccarthy** on 12 Jun 2011 23:32

Hi

As title suggests I have Zero Phosphates and Nitrates albeit on Salifert Test Kits. I am starting to get a little bit of Cyno on some of the rock. I was delighted with these both coming close to zero and yesterday on weekly check both zero. But now I read about the redfield ratio. Is this something that should be believed and followed? Any experts help a beginner please.

by **apistodiscus** on 13 Jun 2011 10:35

the Redfield stoichiometry does not relate to water but to biomass in oceans

by **STEVOR** on 13 Jun 2011 11:47

Your phosphate levels are probably not near 0. You need a low level phos kit to get a true picture , to combat Cyano u need v low phos + 0 TDS ro water

by **Will@PowderBlue** on 13 Jun 2011 12:24

Would of the sponsers might be able to chesk it on a low level kit. Or you could by one ( think they could be expensive though) All phos tests have a broad zero range unless it can detect ultra low. You might be surprised at how much phos you actually have!!

Good Luck,

Will,

by **STEVOR** on 13 Jun 2011 12:43

apistodiscus wrote:the Redfield stoichiometry does not relate to water but to biomass in oceans

But it does relate to the bacteria growing in your tank .

by **jakemaccarthy** on 13 Jun 2011 13:11

Yeah I'm going to pick up a Hanna checker just thought it was interested when I read everyone striving for zero Phosphates and Nitrates(myself included) that that may not be ideal either. But you'll probably never get to true zero on either if properly checked on accurate test so it never really matters. Just saw on a forum a guy trying to add nitrates to balance with his phosphates to reduce the Cyno. He may have another issue though. This reef keeping business should be a masters in college.

by **apistodiscus** on 13 Jun 2011 13:21

STEVOR wrote:But it does relate to the bacteria growing in your tank .

my point, it does not relate to either phosphates or nitrates dissolved in your water but to those found in phytoplankton. Have a look at any flake food, it will show you how much phosphates it contains but that does not mean that these phosphates get dissolved in your water. You could also argue that you should have 0 silicic acid in the water to suppress the growth of diatoms.

by **schriss** on 26 Mar 2012 13:11

I once got Cyano when my Nitrates/Phosphates went down very low, because I didn't adjust my carbon dosing. Not sure what you're doing to keep those low?

by **robbiesreef** on 26 Mar 2012 19:29

Don't get too caught up in having zero nitrate and P04 especially when only starting out

Have a read of this new article
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/3/chemistry

by **robbiesreef** on 26 Mar 2012 19:31

schriss wrote:I once got Cyano when my Nitrates/Phosphates went down very low, because I didn't adjust my carbon dosing. Not sure what you're doing to keep those low?

The main cause of cyano is P04 and not having zero tds water

by **igmillichip** on 26 Mar 2012 20:53

Zero nitrates is not as ideal a situation as one might think in certain tank conditions, especially if the tank happens to has anaerobic areas. (cf. uncontrolled vodka dosing)
There is an increased chance of hydrogen sulphide bio-production in low nitrate conditions.
From there there is not just the toxic hydrogen sulphide problem with which to deal, there is also the very much increased potential of reduction of any nitrite or nitrate to ammonium/ammonia (whereby what might be an acceptable concentration of nitrite or nitrate is converted to an unacceptable level of ammonia).

ian

by **schriss** on 26 Mar 2012 21:12

robbiesreef wrote:
schriss wrote:I once got Cyano when my Nitrates/Phosphates went down very low, because I didn't adjust my carbon dosing. Not sure what you're doing to keep those low?

The main cause of cyano is P04 and not having zero tds water

Yes, but in my case my RO-DI unit always produced 0 tds water and too much carbon caused the bloom. In my case, If I reduced dosing considerably right on time, I would avoid cyano outbreak.

by **robbiesreef** on 26 Mar 2012 21:45

schriss wrote:
robbiesreef wrote:
schriss wrote:I once got Cyano when my Nitrates/Phosphates went down very low, because I didn't adjust my carbon dosing. Not sure what you're doing to keep those low?

The main cause of cyano is P04 and not having zero tds water

Yes, but in my case my RO-DI unit always produced 0 tds water and too much carbon caused the bloom. In my case, If I reduced dosing considerably right on time, I would avoid cyano outbreak.

What where you using for carbon dosing?

by **schriss** on 26 Mar 2012 21:56

robbiesreef wrote:What where you using for carbon dosing?

Brightwell BioFuel + MicroBacter7. It was after I got the cyano outbreak, when I was researching possible causes, that carbon dosing was listed there. I found out much later that I should have cut the dosing by few times, but have missed the time. It was just 2 weeks when Nitrates/Phosphates went down very quickly, as far as I remember it went down to 1 ppm of Nitrate when it happened.

by **STEVOR** on 26 Mar 2012 22:06

The Cyano in your tank is caused by nutrients , be them nitrate , phosphate or organics. The best way to beat them is with good filtration .A good skimmer. Filter socks to remove mulm , carbon for organics and pellets for nitrate and phosphate. Even if you test zero phosphate , your tank rock and sand can still leech phosphate into the water column . Often under estimated is the ability of carbon to remove organics you can't even test for . I run 1 litre of carbon in a reactor and 3 litres of biopellets at full pelt. I have no nitrate or phosphate ( I don't use rowaphos) . My sand is constantly clear and I clean the glass once a week.